Bandsaw Buying Guide: Throat Depth, Resaw Capacity, and Blade Selection

A bandsaw is the most versatile saw in a woodworking shop. It rips, crosscuts, resaws thick stock into thinner boards, cuts curves, and handles irregular shapes that would be dangerous or impossible on a table saw. Unlike a table saw, the blade pushes the workpiece down onto the table instead of throwing it back at you. It is inherently safer than most other power saws, and the thin blade wastes less material per cut. This guide covers bandsaw sizing, blade selection, guide systems, tension, and tuning for accurate cuts.

Sizing: Throat Depth and Resaw Capacity

Bandsaw size is described by two measurements: wheel diameter (which determines throat depth) and resaw capacity (maximum cutting height). A 14-inch bandsaw has 14-inch wheels, a throat depth of about 13-1/2 inches, and resaw capacity of 6 to 12 inches depending on the model and whether a riser block is installed.

9- to 10-inch benchtop models handle curves, small resawing tasks, and light ripping. They are affordable (typically $150 to $350) and compact enough to store on a shelf when not in use. Resaw capacity is limited to 3 to 4 inches. These saws are good for scrollwork, small furniture parts, and light-duty projects. The smaller motor (1/3 to 1/2 HP) and lighter frame limit them to thinner material and slower feed rates than larger saws.

14-inch bandsaws are the standard home-shop size and the most popular category for serious hobbyists. They handle the vast majority of woodworking tasks: ripping boards to width, cutting curves in thick stock, and resawing boards up to 6 inches thick (or up to 12 inches with a riser block). A 1 to 1.5 HP motor drives them, and they typically cost $500 to $1,200 depending on features and build quality. Grizzly, Rikon, Laguna, Jet, and WEN all make well-regarded 14-inch models.

17- to 18-inch saws are full-sized shop machines for woodworkers who resaw frequently or work with wide stock. They resaw 12 or more inches without a riser block, have 2 to 3 HP motors, and the larger wheel diameter means longer blade life (less flex fatigue per revolution) and better tracking stability. These saws cost $1,200 to $3,000 and weigh 250 to 400 pounds. For frequent resawing and production work, the investment is justified.

Riser blocks are aftermarket or factory add-ons that extend the upper wheel housing on a 14-inch saw by about 6 inches, increasing resaw capacity from 6 to 12 inches. They require a longer blade (typically 105 inches instead of 93-1/2 inches) and sometimes a more powerful motor to push the blade through taller cuts. Riser blocks work well and are a cost-effective way to get large resaw capacity without buying a bigger saw. Laguna, Rikon, and Jet all offer riser block kits for their 14-inch models.

Blade Width, TPI, and Selection

Blade selection is the single biggest factor in how well a bandsaw performs at any given task. The right blade for resawing is completely wrong for scrollwork, and vice versa.

Width determines cutting capability. Wider blades cut straighter because they resist sideways deflection. Narrower blades cut tighter curves because they can turn in a smaller radius. A 1/2-inch blade handles most general ripping, resawing in moderate heights, and gentle curves. A 1/4-inch blade cuts moderate curves and is a good all-around choice if you only keep one blade on the saw. A 1/8-inch blade handles tight radii for scrollwork and detailed curved cuts.

For resawing (ripping a board into thinner slabs), use the widest blade your saw accepts. On a 14-inch bandsaw, that is typically 1/2 inch. On an 18-inch saw, 3/4 inch or even 1 inch. Wide blades resist the deflection that causes curved, uneven resaw cuts. A 1/2-inch, 3-TPI blade is the standard resaw setup on a 14-inch saw.

TPI (teeth per inch) determines cut smoothness and chip clearance. Lower TPI means bigger gullets that clear chips from thick cuts. Higher TPI means smoother cuts in thin material. For resawing and rough ripping, 3 to 4 TPI provides the large gullets needed to clear chips from cuts that may be 6 or more inches tall. For general purpose cutting in 1- to 2-inch stock, 6 TPI is a good balance. For thin material, veneer, and metal cutting, 10 to 14 TPI produces a smooth surface.

Blade material matters. Carbon steel blades are inexpensive ($8 to $15 for a 93-1/2-inch blade) and work well for general wood cutting. They are the standard choice for most home-shop tasks. Bi-metal blades last much longer and handle nails, mixed materials, and harder woods without losing their edge. They cost two to three times more but are worth it if you cut reclaimed lumber or encounter hidden fasteners. Carbide-tipped blades excel at resaw work. They stay sharp 5 to 10 times longer than carbon steel and hold a consistent kerf width throughout their life. At $40 to $80 per blade, they are an investment that pays off for anyone who resaws regularly.

Blade Guides and Tension

Blade guides keep the blade tracking straight during the cut. There are two sets: one above the table and one below. Each set has two side guides (left and right of the blade) and one rear thrust bearing (behind the blade). Properly adjusted guides are essential for accurate cutting.

Block guides (steel, ceramic, or Cool Blocks) are simple friction guides that press against the sides and back of the blade. Steel blocks work but can generate heat and wear grooves into the blade if adjusted too tightly. Ceramic blocks run cooler. Cool Blocks (graphite-impregnated composite) are the most popular friction-guide material. They run quiet, generate minimal heat, and are self-lubricating. Cool Blocks are an inexpensive upgrade for any bandsaw that comes with steel blocks.

Ball-bearing guides have small bearings that roll against the blade sides and back. They create less friction than any block guide, last longer, and are easier to adjust precisely. Carter, Olson, and several aftermarket manufacturers make bearing guide sets that replace the factory block guides on most benchtop and 14-inch saws. Bearing guides are one of the best upgrades you can make to an entry-level bandsaw.

Proper blade tension is critical for straight cuts. An under-tensioned blade wanders during rip cuts and produces wavy resaw surfaces. An over-tensioned blade fatigues faster and can crack or break prematurely. Most bandsaws have a tension scale on the upper housing, but these are approximate at best. The flutter test is more reliable: set the upper guide 6 inches above the table, tension the blade, and push it sideways with your finger. It should deflect about 1/4 inch. Adjust until it hits that mark. Too little tension and the blade wanders; too much and you shorten blade life.

Tuning for Accurate Cuts

A bandsaw that drifts during rip cuts is not broken. It is out of adjustment. Proper tuning starts with the blade, not the fence, and addresses each element in sequence.

Blade tracking: The blade should ride in the center of the upper wheel crown, or slightly forward of center. Open the upper wheel cover, loosen the blade guides, and turn the tracking adjustment knob while spinning the upper wheel by hand. Watch the blade position on the wheel and adjust until the blade tracks consistently in the same spot through several full rotations. Then close the cover and reset the guides.

Table square to blade: Place a small square against the flat side of the blade (with the teeth facing away from the square) and check for daylight between the square and the blade. If the table is tilted, the blade and square will not be parallel. Adjust the table tilt until the blade and square align with no gap. This ensures your cuts are perpendicular to the table surface.

Guide adjustment: The side guides should sit about the thickness of a piece of paper (0.003 to 0.005 inch) from the blade body, just behind the blade's tooth gullets. The thrust bearing should sit about 1/64 inch behind the back of the blade and only spin when the blade is pushed backward during a cut. Adjust both the upper and lower guide sets.

Drift compensation: Even a properly tuned saw may cut at a slight angle relative to the miter slot. This is called drift. Rather than fighting it, accommodate it. Draw a straight line on a scrap board, cut freehand along the line, and note the angle the board naturally feeds at to stay on the line. Set your fence parallel to that angle. Some aftermarket fences have a built-in drift adjustment that makes this easy.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Size Bandsaw for a Home Shop?

A 14-inch bandsaw handles the vast majority of home woodworking tasks. With a 1/2-inch resaw blade, it cuts boards up to 6 inches thick (more with a riser block). For occasional use and smaller projects, a 10-inch benchtop model is adequate and much less expensive. If you plan to resaw wide boards regularly (for bookmatched panels, thick veneers, or box-making stock), consider the 14-inch with a riser block or step up to a 17- to 18-inch model.

Can I Resaw on a Benchtop Bandsaw?

You can resaw material up to the saw's maximum cutting height, typically 3 to 4 inches. The lighter frame and smaller motor limit the cut height, and the saw may struggle with dense hardwoods like hard maple or white oak at full capacity. For occasional thin resawing (cutting veneers from 2-inch boards, for example), a benchtop works. For regular resawing of thicker stock, a 14-inch or larger saw is far better. The heavier frame, more powerful motor, and wider blade capacity produce straighter, more consistent resaw cuts.

Why Does My Bandsaw Blade Wander During Rip Cuts?

The blade is either dull, under-tensioned, or too narrow for the cut. For rip cuts, use a 1/2-inch or wider blade with 3 to 4 TPI. Tension it properly using the flutter test described above. Make sure the guides are adjusted close to the blade on both sides and that the thrust bearings are set correctly. Also check that the blade teeth are still sharp. A dull blade follows the path of least resistance rather than the fence, and no amount of guide or fence adjustment fixes a dull blade.

Related Reading

• Table Saw Buying Guide
• Workshop Setup Guide
• Beginner Woodworking Tools