Fence Building Tools: Everything You Need

Planning and Layout

Before any digging starts, you need to know exactly where the fence goes, where the posts land, and where the utilities are buried. This phase is all about measurement and marking. Mistakes here are expensive to fix once concrete is in the ground.

• Tape measure (25 or 35 foot) — you will measure post spacing (6 or 8 feet on center, typically), total fence length, and gate openings repeatedly. A 25-foot tape handles most residential fences. If the fence runs over 100 linear feet, a 100-foot reel tape ($15) is useful for the initial layout measurement. Measuring tools overview.
• String line and stakes — for marking the fence line. Drive stakes at corners and end points, stretch string between them, and mark post locations along the string at your chosen spacing. This is the only way to get a straight fence. Eyeballing it over 50 feet of yard will produce a visible curve.
• Spray paint (marking paint) — for marking post hole locations on the ground after you have set the string line. Upside-down spray cans designed for ground marking ($5 each) are easier to use and more visible than regular spray paint. The marks survive rain and foot traffic long enough to get through the digging phase.
• Call 811 before you dig — not a tool, but a legal requirement in every state. The national dig-safe number sends utility locators to mark underground gas, electric, water, and cable lines for free. The phone call takes 5 minutes and avoids a $10,000 gas line repair or worse. Allow 2 to 3 business days for locators to respond. Do this before you do anything else.

Post Holes

Digging post holes is the hardest physical labor on a fence project. The tool choice here has the biggest impact on your body and your timeline. For a fence with 30 posts, the difference between a manual digger and a power auger is the difference between two full days of exhausting work and four hours of manageable effort.

• Post-hole digger (clamshell type) — the manual tool with two handles and hinged blades. Works in most soil types for holes 6 to 12 inches wide and up to 36 inches deep. For 10 or fewer posts in reasonable soil, a clamshell digger ($30 to $40) is adequate. Your shoulders will remind you the next day.
• Gas-powered or electric auger — for 15 or more posts, borrow or rent an auger. A one-person electric auger ($200 to $300 to buy, $50 to $75 per day to rent) handles soft to medium soil. A two-person gas auger ($75 to $100 per day rental) handles clay and rocky soil. This is the single highest-value tool to borrow for a fence project. A neighbor who built their own fence probably owns one and would be happy to lend it. FriendsWithTools makes coordinating the loan straightforward.
• Digging bar (tamping bar) — a 6-foot, 16-pound steel bar for breaking through rocks and compacted clay that the digger or auger cannot handle. Not needed in sandy or loamy soil. In rocky soil, this bar is the difference between finishing a hole and giving up. The weight does the work; you lift and drop.
• Shovel (round point) — for cleaning loose dirt out of holes and backfilling around set posts. Also useful for initial soil breaking in soft ground. A standard round-point shovel that you already own works fine.
• Level (48-inch and torpedo) — the 48-inch for checking that posts are plumb in both directions before the concrete sets. The torpedo level for checking rails and quick spot-checks while working. Getting the posts plumb is critical because an out-of-plumb post means every picket on that section hangs crooked.

Setting Posts and Building

Once the holes are dug, the project shifts from digging to carpentry. Posts go in with concrete, rails attach with structural screws, and pickets get fastened one at a time. This is the repetitive phase where an impact driver earns its place in your toolkit.

• Concrete mix — not a tool, but buy enough before you start. Two 50-pound bags per post for 4x4 posts in 8-inch holes. Three bags for 6-inch posts in 10-inch holes. Pre-mixed fast-setting concrete (Quikrete Fast-Setting) sets in 20 to 40 minutes so you can start attaching rails the same day. For a 100-foot fence with posts every 8 feet, that is roughly 25 bags.
• Circular saw — for cutting posts to height, trimming rails to length, and cutting pickets. A 7-1/4 inch blade cuts through 4x4 posts (flip the post and cut from two sides) and handles all 2x rail cuts in a single pass. Cordless is ideal for fence work since you are working far from outlets along the property line. Circular saw guide.
• Cordless drill/driver with impact driver — the drill for pilot holes, the impact driver for driving 3-inch structural screws into rails and 1-5/8 inch screws into pickets. You will drive hundreds of screws on a fence. The impact driver's torque prevents stripping in pressure-treated lumber and reduces wrist fatigue on a project that may span two weekends. Cordless drill guide.
• Clamps (bar clamps or quick-grip, 12-inch) — for holding rails against posts while you fasten them. At minimum 4 clamps. Six is better because you can pre-clamp the next section while driving screws in the current one. This approach keeps the workflow moving without waiting for a helper to hold boards in position.
• Framing square or speed square — for marking 90-degree cuts on posts and rails, and checking that posts are square to rails. A speed square ($12) is the more portable option and doubles as a saw guide for crosscuts.
• Chalk line — for snapping a level line across all the posts to mark the rail height or the top-of-fence line. One snap marks every post at the same height in seconds, which is far faster and more accurate than measuring each post individually.

Buy vs. Borrow for Fences

A fence project has a clear split between tools you will use again on other projects and tools you need for one or two days of intense work. The borrow list is short but high-value.

Buy ($50 to $80 total): tape measure, string line, spray paint, screws, concrete, clamps, speed square. These are inexpensive, consumable, or tools you will reach for on every future outdoor project.

Buy if you do not already own: circular saw, drill/driver, impact driver. These are core tools for any construction project. If you are building a fence, you will also use them for deck repairs, shed work, gate fixes, and dozens of other jobs over the years. See our battery platform guide if you are choosing a cordless system for the first time.

Borrow: auger (the single highest-value borrow on a fence project), 48-inch level (if you do not own one), digging bar (only needed in rocky soil). A neighbor who has built a fence probably owns the auger and the level. Tools everyone borrows.

Skip entirely: a nail gun for fence pickets. Screws are superior for fence construction because they hold better over time as the wood expands and contracts with seasonal moisture changes. Nails back out over a few years and leave pickets loose. Screws also let you remove and reattach a picket cleanly if one gets damaged. Nails are traditional, but screws are the better choice for longevity.

Frequently Asked Questions

How Deep Should Fence Post Holes Be?

One-third of the total post length as a minimum. For a 6-foot fence with 4x4x8 posts, that means 24 to 30 inches deep. In areas with freeze-thaw cycles, local code may require the bottom of the concrete footing to be below the frost line, which ranges from 24 to 48 inches depending on your climate zone. Check your local building code before digging. Setting posts too shallow leads to leaning and heaving after a few winters.

Do I Need a Permit for a Fence?

Most jurisdictions require a permit for fences over 6 feet tall. Many HOAs require approval for any fence regardless of height, and some cities require a permit for any fence at all. Check with your local building department and HOA (if applicable) before starting construction. Also verify your property line with a survey or at minimum your plat map. Building a fence 6 inches onto your neighbor's property creates a legal headache that is far more expensive than getting a survey done upfront.

Related Reading

• Deck Building Tools
• New Homeowner Toolkit
• Tools Everyone Borrows
• New Homeowner Tool Guide