Understanding Sandpaper Grits: Which Grit for Which Job

How Grit Numbers Work

The grit number roughly corresponds to the number of abrasive particles per square inch of the backing material. 60-grit has large, aggressive particles that tear through material quickly but leave deep scratches. 220-grit has fine particles that smooth a surface without removing much material. The scale runs from 36 (extremely coarse, for paint stripping and heavy stock removal) up to 2000 and beyond (ultra-fine, for automotive clear coat polishing and lacquer finishing).

For woodworking and general DIY, the useful range sits between 60 and 320. That span covers everything from stripping old paint off a dresser to preparing a tabletop for its final coat of polyurethane. Going above 320 on bare wood is not just unnecessary, it is counterproductive for most finishes because it burnishes the pores closed and prevents stain from absorbing evenly.

The Grit Ranges

40 to 60 Grit: Coarse

This is the aggressive end. Coarse grits remove material fast: old paint, heavy varnish, rough mill marks on lumber, and surface defects like gouges and raised grain. A 60-grit disc on a random orbit sander strips a painted chair in minutes. The tradeoff is deep scratches that must be sanded out with finer grits before finishing. Do not start here unless the surface genuinely needs aggressive material removal. On bare wood that is already reasonably flat, starting at 60 creates extra work.

80 Grit: Medium-Coarse

The typical starting point for bare wood that is already in reasonable shape. 80 grit removes mill marks from dimensional lumber, smooths rough-sawn surfaces, and levels minor imperfections like shallow dents and raised grain. Most sanding projects begin at 80 if the wood is not painted or heavily damaged. On a random orbit sander, 80 grit leaves a scratch pattern that is visible but manageable. On a belt sander, 80 grit removes material quickly enough to flatten a board but still leaves noticeable scratches.

120 Grit: Medium

This grit removes the scratch pattern left by 80 and prepares the surface for primer or sealer. For paint-grade work (where the surface will be covered with opaque paint), 120 is often the final sanding grit. The scratches are small enough that primer fills them, and the subsequent paint coats hide any remaining texture. If you are painting, there is no need to go finer than 120 on the bare wood.

150 to 180 Grit: Medium-Fine

The transition zone between rough prep and finish prep. 150 grit works well for scuffing between coats of primer to help the next coat bond. 180 grit is the starting point for wood that will receive stain, because stain accentuates every scratch pattern that remains on the surface. If you are staining pine, oak, or maple, 180 grit removes the 120-grit scratches and produces a surface that accepts stain more evenly. Skipping from 120 to 220 on stain-grade work often leaves visible cross-hatching under the stain.

220 Grit: Fine

The standard final grit before applying stain, clear coat, or varnish to bare wood. At 220, the scratch pattern is invisible to the naked eye under most finishes. This is the grit where you stop sanding bare wood. Going beyond 220 on bare wood actually reduces stain absorption because the abrasive burnishes the wood pores closed. The stain sits on top instead of soaking in, which produces a blotchy, uneven appearance. For paint-grade work, 220 is overkill. For stain-grade work, 220 is the target.

320 Grit: Very Fine

Used between coats of finish (polyurethane, lacquer, varnish), not on bare wood. After the first coat of poly dries, dust nibs and raised grain create a rough texture. A light pass with 320 grit knocks down those nibs without cutting through the finish coat. This gives the next coat a smooth, clean surface to bond to. Use very light pressure. The goal is to degloss the surface and remove imperfections, not to sand through the finish. If you see bare wood appearing, you are pressing too hard or the previous coat was too thin.

The Stepping Rule

Do not skip more than one grit level. Going from 80 straight to 220 leaves 80-grit scratches that the 220-grit particles cannot reach. The grooves cut by 80 grit are too deep for the fine 220 particles to sand out in any reasonable amount of time. You will spend 20 minutes with 220 and still see the 80-grit pattern under a coat of stain.

The correct progression is 80, 120, 150 or 180, then 220. Each grit removes the scratch pattern left by the previous one and replaces it with a finer pattern. By the time you reach 220, the surface scratches are too small to see.

You can skip the 150/180 step if you are painting instead of staining. Paint is opaque and thick enough to fill 120-grit scratches. Stain is not. If stain is going on the wood, sand through every step up to 220. On the final pass at each grit, sand with the grain. Cross-grain scratches at any grit will show through stain.

For more on sanding technique and grit sequencing, see our sanding grit progression guide.

Grit by Task

Different projects call for different starting points and progressions. Here are the common ones:

• Stripping paint from furniture — chemical stripper first if the paint is thick (saves time and sandpaper), then sand the residue starting at 60, stepping to 80, then 120.
• Preparing bare lumber for paint — 80 to 120. Stop at 120. Primer fills the rest.
• Preparing bare wood for stain — 80 to 120 to 180 to 220. Every step matters. Sand the final pass with the grain.
• Between coats of polyurethane or varnish — 220 to 320, light pressure. Just enough to degloss the surface and knock down dust nibs.
• Smoothing drywall joint compound — 120 to 150 on a pole sander or sanding sponge. Going finer than 150 on drywall compound is unnecessary since primer and paint cover it.
• Deburring cut metal — 80 to 120 on a flap disc or sanding belt. Metal sanding uses the same grit scale but the abrasive material is different (aluminum oxide or zirconia instead of garnet).

Wet sanding (400 to 2000 grit with water as a lubricant) is specialized work used in automotive finishing and lacquer polishing. It is outside the scope of general woodworking but follows the same stepping principle.

Choosing the Right Sander

The sander you use affects which grits you need. A belt sander with 80 grit removes material aggressively and is suited for large flat surfaces and heavy stock removal. A random orbit sander at 80 grit is gentler and better for furniture-scale work. A quarter-sheet palm sander is fine for small parts and between-coat sanding but too slow for stripping or leveling.

For most homeowners, a 5-inch random orbit sander handles everything from rough prep at 80 grit to final sanding at 220. It is the single most versatile sander type. See our sander selection guide for detailed comparisons of sander types and our random orbit sander page for current model recommendations.

Frequently Asked Questions

What grit sandpaper should I use before painting wood?

120 grit for the final sand before primer. If the wood is rough or has mill marks, start at 80 and step to 120. If you are scuffing between coats of paint, 220 grit is enough to give the next coat a surface to grip.

What grit should I use before staining?

220 grit as the final step, with a progression of 80 to 120 to 180 to 220. Stain highlights every scratch, so you cannot skip steps. Sand with the grain on the final pass. Cross-grain scratches at 220 will show clearly through stain.

Can I reuse sandpaper?

Yes, until it stops cutting effectively. Sandpaper that is clogged with white residue (from paint or wood filler filling the gaps between particles) can sometimes be cleaned with a rubber sanding belt cleaner or a crepe rubber block. Once the abrasive particles themselves are worn flat, the paper is done regardless of how clean it looks. Worn sandpaper generates heat and burnishes the surface instead of cutting it.

Is higher grit always better?

No. Sanding bare wood past 220 burnishes the surface and closes the pores, which prevents stain from absorbing evenly. Higher grits (320 and above) are specifically for between-coat sanding on applied finishes, not for bare wood preparation. More is not better. The right grit for the specific step is better.

Related Reading

• Sanding Grit Progression
• Choosing the Right Sander
• Random-Orbit Sander Guide
• What Is Grit Rating?